There is a particular scent that greets you when you step into a herbalist's shop. Dried lavender, rose petals, a little chamomile, all mingling together on the shelves the way they have for generations.
For most of history, that scent simply came from the plants themselves. Today, it often comes with a few long names printed on the back of the bottle, and two of the most common are linalool and limonene.
With more people looking for fragrance free skincare than ever, it is worth knowing what those words really mean. So let us read the label together, look at what natural scent actually adds, and walk through how to patch test something new.
So, what are linalool and limonene?
Linalool and limonene are natural aroma compounds made by plants. Limonene comes mostly from the peel of citrus fruits, while linalool is found in many herbs and flowers2.
Lavender is a lovely example. Lavender grown at high altitude naturally produces more linalool, which is a big part of its soft, floral scent.
So when you see linalool and limonene in skincare, it does not always mean a synthetic perfume has been added. Very often, they are simply part of a natural essential oil in the formula.
Why do they appear on the label at all?
Here is where the story gets interesting. Cosmetic rules require certain fragrance allergens to be named on the label once they pass a very small amount, 0.001% in leave on products such as creams and 0.01% in rinse off products such as washes1.
The rule applies whether the scent comes from a lab or from a lavender field. One official example shows that a cream containing just 1.3% lavender oil carries enough natural linalool to need declaring1.
In the EU, the list of named allergens grew from 26 to 82 in 2023, with new products needing the longer list from July 20261. So you may start to notice even more of these names on labels over the next few years.
A real example from our own shelves
Our Calendula and Marshmallow Soothing Salve contains a little lavender oil. That is why its ingredient list ends with "Naturally occurring in essential oils: Linalool, Limonene".
Nothing artificial has been added. The label is simply being honest about what the lavender brings with it.
Are linalool and limonene bad for your skin?
For most people, no. We always like to be honest about the science, though, and there is one detail that matters.
In their fresh form, linalool and limonene only occasionally cause problems. When they are exposed to air over time, they oxidise into compounds called hydroperoxides, which are much more likely to trigger an allergic reaction2.
Among people being investigated for suspected contact dermatitis, around 10% were found to react to these oxidised forms2. That is a specific group with skin problems already, but it explains why some people notice a reaction to an old bottle and not a fresh one.
The practical lesson is a gentle one. Keep lids tightly closed, store products away from heat and light, and do not hold on to opened toiletries for years.
Why your skin barrier matters here
You may have noticed more people talking about looking after their skin barrier. This outer layer of skin holds moisture in and keeps irritants out, held together by natural fats such as ceramides.
When the barrier is dry, cracked or stressed, irritants can get in more easily. So a scented product that usually suits you may feel less comfortable on those days, which is why caring for your barrier and reading the label go hand in hand.
Our guide to a compromised skin barrier explains the signs to look out for and how to support it.
If you have sensitive skin, remember to patch test any new product before using it more widely. We explain how to do it simply further down.
What is the difference between fragrance free and naturally scented?
This is where labels can be surprisingly confusing. A fragrance free product should have no added scent at all, but some products sold as fragrance free can still contain masking fragrances to cover the smell of other ingredients3.
The British Society for Cutaneous Allergy also points out that products labelled "unscented", "no added fragrance" or "organic" may still contain plant essential oils4. These oils are often listed by their Latin name, so they are easy to miss.
Naturally scented products are different again. They get their aroma from flowers, herbs or essential oils, and for many people that scent is part of the comfort and ritual of using them.
What does natural scent actually add?
Essential oils are not only there to smell nice. For centuries, herbalists have chosen them for their traditional calming, soothing or uplifting qualities, and to make a daily routine feel like a small moment of care.
Flower waters sit gently in the middle. Our Rose Flower Water and French Lavender Flower Water are made from the water left after distilling the flowers, so they carry a soft natural scent without any artificial fragrance.
If you have ever wondered how flower waters are made, renowned author, research herbalist and forager, Monica Wilde shares her method in our guide on how to make a flower water at home.
Which Napiers products are unscented?
If your skin is happiest with no scent at all, we checked every ingredient list before naming these. None of them contain added fragrance or essential oils.
Our Calendula Flower Skin Cream and Chamomile Skin Cream are both mild everyday creams for dry or sensitive skin. The Baby Starflower Dry Skin Cream is gentle enough for the whole family.
Our Hypochlorous Spray contains just water and hypochlorous acid. You may notice a light chlorine smell at first, but it fades quickly.
For more ideas, our guides to a natural skincare routine for sensitive skin and choosing a gentle cleanser are good places to start.
How do you use essential oils safely on skin?
Essential oils are very concentrated, so they should never go onto the skin neat. Our Lavender Essential Oil is a lovely one to start with, as long as it is diluted properly.
For a massage blend, we suggest up to 5 drops of essential oil in 10ml of carrier oil, such as our Calendula Carrier Oil. For a bath, mix up to 4 drops into a tablespoon of carrier oil first, so the oil does not sit on the surface of the water.
Our guide to essential oils has more on choosing and blending them. And as fresh oils are kinder to skin, keep bottles tightly closed and use them within a sensible time once opened.
How do you patch test a new product?
Patch testing is the simplest way to find out how your skin feels about something new. Dermatologists suggest choosing a small spot where the product will not be rubbed off, such as the inside of your elbow5.
Apply it there twice a day for seven to ten days, using the amount you would normally use5. For a rinse off product like a cleanser, leave it on for around five minutes before washing it away.
If you notice redness, itching or swelling, wash it off and stop using it5. If nothing happens after seven to ten days, your skin is likely to be comfortable with it.
A gentle word before you begin
If you have eczema, a known fragrance allergy or very reactive skin, it is worth getting advice before you try something new. Your GP or a dermatologist can arrange proper clinical patch testing if you need it.
You are also very welcome to book a free consultation with one of our herbalists. We are always happy to talk through labels, ingredients and what might suit your skin.
Frequently asked questions
What do linalool and limonene mean on a skincare label?
They are natural aroma compounds found in many plants and essential oils. They must be named on the label when present above a very small amount, even if they come from a natural source1.
Is linalool bad for your skin?
For most people, linalool is well tolerated. It becomes more likely to cause a reaction once it has oxidised through exposure to air, so fresh, well stored products are best2.
Does linalool on the label mean a product has synthetic fragrance?
Not necessarily. Linalool occurs naturally in lavender and many other essential oils, so it often appears on the labels of naturally scented products.
What is the difference between fragrance free and unscented?
Fragrance free should mean no added scent, while unscented can sometimes mean a masking fragrance has been used to neutralise smells3. Always check the full ingredient list rather than the front of the pack.
Are essential oils safe for sensitive skin?
Many people use diluted essential oils without any problems, but some sensitive skins react to them. Always dilute them properly and patch test first.
How long should I patch test a new skincare product?
Dermatologists suggest applying it twice a day to the same small area for seven to ten days5. If there is no redness, itching or swelling, it is likely to suit you.
Do flower waters contain essential oils?
Flower waters are made from the water left after distilling flowers, so they carry a softer, gentler scent than essential oils. They are still worth patch testing if your skin is sensitive.
References
- Austrian Agency for Health and Food Safety (AGES). New fragrance regulation in cosmetics. Available at: ages.at.
- DermNet. Contact allergy to hydroperoxides of limonene and linalool. Available at: dermnetnz.org.
- DermNet. Fragrance allergy. Available at: dermnetnz.org.
- British Society for Cutaneous Allergy. Allergy to fragrance mix I and II: patient information. Available at: cutaneousallergy.org.
- American Academy of Dermatology. How to test skin care products. Available at: aad.org.
