Walk down any beauty aisle and you will see the word "natural" printed on almost everything. Creams, serums and cleansers all promise purity, yet the ingredient list on the back often tells a different story. It is no surprise that apps like Yuka have become so popular, letting shoppers scan a barcode and get an instant rating of what is really inside a product. For many people, this gap between packaging and content is frustrating. Knowing what to look for, rather than what to take on trust, is the real skill.
At Napiers, ingredient transparency is not a new idea. Since Duncan Napier opened his herbal dispensary in Edinburgh in 1860, we have worked with recognisable, traceable botanicals — herbs, oils and plant extracts that speak for themselves. Long before "clean beauty" existed as a category, we were simply making skincare the way we always had.
What Does Non Toxic Skincare Actually Mean?
It is worth knowing that "non toxic" is not a legally defined or regulated term in UK cosmetics law. Unlike "organic," which requires certification, any brand can describe a product as non toxic without independent verification. Cosmetic products sold in the UK must meet safety standards set out under the UK Cosmetics Regulation, enforced by the Office for Product Safety and Standards, but this relates to overall product safety rather than the presence or absence of specific ingredients that some consumers prefer to avoid.[1]
In practice, this means the responsibility for checking a label falls to the shopper — or increasingly, to a scanning app doing it on their behalf. That is not as daunting as it sounds once you know what to look for.
Ingredients Worth Understanding
Synthetic fragrance
Listed simply as "parfum" or "fragrance," this can be a blend of dozens of undisclosed chemical compounds. According to the British Association of Dermatologists, fragrance is one of the most common causes of allergic skin reactions, particularly for people with eczema or generally reactive skin.[2]
Look for instead: products scented with real essential oils rather than a generic "fragrance" listing. Our Seven Herb Cream, for example, is scented with tea tree and chamomile essential oils rather than a synthetic fragrance blend — you can see exactly what is providing the scent, not just a catch-all term hiding it.
Sulfates
Ingredients such as sodium lauryl sulfate are effective cleansing agents but can strip the skin's natural oils, leaving it drier and more prone to irritation, especially for those already managing dry or sensitive skin conditions.
Look for instead: gentler, plant-derived cleansing agents (often listed as glucosides, such as coco-glucoside) which clean effectively without the same stripping effect on the skin's natural barrier.
Parabens
Used as preservatives, parabens remain permitted in UK cosmetics within regulated limits. Many people simply prefer to avoid them where a suitable natural alternative exists.
Look for instead: naturally derived preservative systems, and formulas that lean on antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) to help maintain freshness and shelf life without synthetic parabens.
How to Read a Skincare Label
- Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, so check what appears near the top of the list.
- Look for recognisable plant and herb names rather than long strings of unfamiliar synthetic compounds.
- Be cautious of vague claims such as "naturally derived," which can still describe heavily processed ingredients.
- If you have a diagnosed skin condition such as eczema or rosacea, the NHS advises checking with a pharmacist or GP before trying new products, particularly fragranced ones.[4][5]
Herbs That Have Always Earned Their Place in Skincare
Long before ingredient lists and lab certificates, herbalists were already relying on a small number of plants they had seen work, again and again. Here are five that have earned their place through repeated, practical use rather than marketing.
1. Calendula (Marigold)
Traditionally used to calm and soothe skin that is grazed, irritated or inflamed. Its long-standing reputation is for helping redness and sensitivity settle — a straightforward solution for a compromised, reactive skin barrier.
2. Chamomile
Valued for centuries for its calming, anti-inflammatory qualities, both Roman and German chamomile have traditionally been used on skin that flushes or reacts easily, helping to ease that feeling of heat and tightness.
3. Chickweed
A cooling, soothing herb traditionally applied to itchy or irritated skin. It has long been reached for when skin feels tight, dry or uncomfortable, rather than simply for cosmetic effect.
4. Borage (Starflower) Seed Oil
Rich in gamma linolenic acid (GLA), borage seed oil has traditionally been used to support the skin's own barrier function, helping ease the tightness and discomfort that comes with very dry skin.
5. Wild Yam
Containing diosgenin, wild yam has long been used by women navigating the skin changes that come with hormonal shifts such as the menopause. The NHS notes that falling oestrogen levels during menopause can affect skin elasticity and moisture, which is why many women look for gentler, well tolerated skincare during this stage of life.[3]
You will find calendula, chamomile and chickweed together in our Seven Herb Cream, borage seed oil in our Starflower Dry Skin Cream, and wild yam in our Wild Yam Skin Cream — each built around a short, purposeful list of the herbs above rather than a long one.
Why This Matters More As Skin Changes With Age
Skin naturally becomes thinner and loses some of its ability to retain moisture over time, a process the NHS links closely to hormonal changes during and after menopause.[3] This makes skin more reactive to harsh surfactants, synthetic fragrance and alcohol based formulas. Choosing simpler, ingredient transparent skincare is not about following a trend. It is a practical response to how skin actually behaves at this stage of life.
A Simple Checklist Before You Buy
- Read the full ingredient list, not just the front of pack claims.
- Patch test any new product on a small area of skin first, particularly if you have sensitive or reactive skin.
- Favour shorter ingredient lists built around recognisable botanicals.
- Speak to a pharmacist or GP if you have a persistent skin condition rather than self diagnosing from a label. If you would like to talk it through with a herbalist first, Napiers offers a free 15 minute consultation to help you understand your skin and how a treatment plan might help.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is natural skincare always better than synthetic skincare?
Simpler formulas built around recognisable ingredients tend to be easier to tolerate for sensitive or reactive skin. That said, natural does not mean harmless — some botanical ingredients are potent and can still cause reactions in some people. Patch testing is always worthwhile, and it is worth choosing ingredients that suit your skin type rather than following a trend.
What does "non toxic" mean on a skincare label?
It is a marketing term rather than a legally regulated one in the UK. There is no official standard a product must meet to use this wording, which is why reading the full ingredient list matters more than the claims on the front of the packaging.
How do I know if a product is suitable for ageing or sensitive skin?
Patch testing is the safest first step. Look for fragrance free or lightly fragranced formulas with a short ingredient list, and speak to your GP or a pharmacist if you have an existing skin condition such as eczema or rosacea. The NHS website has further guidance on managing these conditions.[4][5] If you would rather talk it through with a person than read a label, Napiers herbalists offer a free 15 minute consultation to help point you in the right direction
Are Napiers skincare products suitable for sensitive skin?
Napiers formulates its creams using traditional, clearly listed herbal ingredients. As with any skincare product, patch testing is recommended before regular use, particularly if you have a known sensitivity or medical skin condition.
This article is for general information only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. If you have a health condition or take medication, please consult your GP or pharmacist before starting any new skincare product.
References
- GOV.UK, Office for Product Safety and Standards
- British Association of Dermatologists, Skin Allergy
- NHS, Symptoms of menopause and perimenopause
- NHS, Atopic eczema
- NHS, Rosacea
