If your skin feels tight, rough, flaky and sore no matter how much moisturiser you apply, you may be dealing with a compromised skin barrier rather than simply "dry skin". When that barrier is damaged, moisture escapes more quickly than it can be replaced, leading to persistent dryness, cracks and sensitivity, especially in eczema‑prone areas like hands, shins and the face.
Why moisturiser alone isn't working
Many everyday lotions focus on adding water to the surface of the skin but do very little to support the lipids (fats) that hold the barrier together. If those lipids are depleted, water evaporates through the skin (known as transepidermal water loss), so skin goes back to feeling tight and rough shortly after you apply cream. This is why people often say, "My skin stays dry no matter how much moisturiser I use", the barrier itself needs support, not just more water.
What is the skin barrier, and how does it get damaged?
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of your skin (the stratum corneum), made up of cells held together by a mixture of lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. When intact, it keeps moisture in and irritants out, acting like a protective shield against weather, friction, detergents and microbes.
Common barrier disruptors include:
- Harsh surfactants, frequent hand‑washing and very hot showers.
- Cold, windy weather and centrally heated, low‑humidity indoor air.
- Over‑exfoliating or using strong actives on already sensitive or eczema‑prone skin.
- Genetic tendency to dry or atopic skin, including eczema and psoriasis, where the barrier is naturally more fragile.
When this barrier is compromised, transepidermal water loss increases, and skin becomes dry, itchy, cracked and more vulnerable to flare‑ups of eczema‑like irritation.
Barrier‑supporting creams: lipids + gentle hydration
Barrier‑supporting creams are designed to mimic and replenish the skin's own lipids while drawing in and holding onto moisture. Instead of relying on strong occlusives alone, they combine humectants (to hydrate) with plant oils naturally rich in barrier‑friendly fatty acids.
Key features of barrier‑focused moisturisers for extremely dry or eczema‑prone skin include:
- Lipid‑rich oils that provide gamma‑linolenic acid (GLA) and other essential fatty acids to help restore the skin's protective layer.
- Humectants like glycerine that attract and hold water in the outer skin layers, reducing roughness and scaling.
- Gentle formulations without harsh fragrance or common irritants, often preferred by those managing chronic dryness or eczema‑prone skin.
When used regularly, these creams help reduce moisture loss, soften rough patches and support a healthier, more resilient skin barrier over time.
Goat's milk: gentle hydration for sensitive, eczema‑prone skin
Goat's milk has a long history in skincare, particularly for dry, sensitive or eczema‑prone skin, thanks to its unique combination of fats, proteins and naturally occurring lactic acid. These components help to hydrate, cushion and lightly exfoliate the skin without the sting or disruption that harsher actives can cause.
Evidence suggests that goat‑milk‑based skincare can:
- Enhance skin hydration and reduce dryness and itching by supporting the barrier and reducing transepidermal water loss.
- Soothe irritation in people with sensitive or eczema‑prone skin, offering gentle cleansing and moisturising without stripping the barrier.
- Provide mild, lactic‑acid‑based exfoliation that helps smooth rough, flaky areas while allowing other moisturising ingredients to penetrate more effectively.
Because of this, goat's milk creams are often chosen by people whose skin reacts to more aggressive formulations but still needs intensive, comforting moisture.
Starflower (borage) oil: GLA for barrier repair
Starflower (borage) seed oil is one of the richest known natural sources of gamma‑linolenic acid (GLA), an omega‑6 fatty acid that plays a key role in healthy skin cell membranes and barrier function. GLA‑rich oils are frequently recommended for very dry, itchy or eczema‑prone skin because they help replenish missing lipids in the outer skin layers.
Research and clinical experience indicate that borage oil can:
- Improve skin barrier function, helping it retain moisture more effectively and reducing persistent dryness.
- Calm redness and irritation, with anti‑inflammatory properties that may benefit eczema and other inflammatory skin conditions.
- Support softer, more supple skin texture when used regularly in creams and body products.
Napiers Starflower Dry Skin Cream, a bestselling emollient, uses borage seed oil specifically for dry, itchy or sensitive skin, helping to moisturise and protect without mineral oil, parabens or artificial fragrance.
Napiers Goatmilk & Starflower Cream: designed for very dry, rough or eczema‑prone skin
Napiers Goatmilk & Starflower Cream brings goat's milk and borage seed oil together in a light but rich milk‑cream texture that is particularly suited to dry, very dry and sensitive or eczema‑prone skin. This combination supports both hydration and barrier lipids, making it a natural fit when skin feels rough, cracked or chronically dehydrated.
From the product information:
- It is formulated as a rich moisturiser with goat's milk and starflower (borage) oil to support the skin barrier and hydration in very dry or sensitive skin.
- The texture is a light milk that absorbs well while still leaving the skin feeling cushioned and protected, ideal for daily use on compromised areas.
- The focus is on soothing, barrier‑supporting.
This kind of formulation is often preferred by people managing chronic dryness or eczema‑prone skin because it combines barrier‑supportive lipids with gentle hydration..
Choosing the right support for different skin concerns
While Napiers Goatmilk & Starflower Cream is designed for very dry or rough skin that needs intensive barrier support, other skin concerns may benefit from different formulations in the Napiers range.
For very dry, itchy or sensitive skin with frequent eczema‑like flare‑ups
If your skin is prone to eczema‑like irritation with itching, redness and flaking that flares up frequently, you may benefit from a fragrance‑free emollient specifically formulated to soothe and calm reactive skin.
Napiers Starflower Dry Skin Cream is a classic, fragrance‑free formula designed specifically for this purpose. It contains:
- Starflower (borage) oil, naturally high in GLA, to support healthy skin cell walls and reduce moisture loss.
- Calming herbal extracts such as chamomile and chickweed, traditionally used to ease irritation and support fragile or easily‑upset skin.
This makes Starflower Cream ideal for areas that are very dry, itchy or prone to eczema‑like flare‑ups, particularly where you want simple, gentle care without added fragrance.
For dull, uneven texture or skin that needs revitalising
If your concern is less about severe dryness or eczema and more about improving the appearance of dull, uneven or lacklustre skin, particularly on the body, a nourishing oil treatment may be more appropriate.
Napiers Ginger Detox Oil is a body oil designed to smooth, rejuvenate and detoxify the skin. It includes:
- Jojoba oil to deeply moisturise and protect the skin barrier while remaining lightweight and easily absorbed.
- Ginger root and citrus oils to invigorate the skin and support overall skin vitality, helping to improve the appearance of uneven texture, scars and dullness.
This oil is best suited as a nourishing body treatment after bathing, particularly where you want to boost circulation, smoothness and radiance rather than focus solely on severe dryness or eczema‑prone patches.
When your skin barrier may be compromised
Your skin barrier may need extra support if you notice:
- Persistent tightness, flaking or roughness that returns quickly after moisturising.
- Cracking around knuckles, heels or shins, especially in cold weather or low humidity.
- Burning, stinging or redness when you apply products that used to feel comfortable.
- Eczema‑like flare‑ups, with itchy, sore patches that become easily irritated by soaps, detergents and fragranced products.
If you have a diagnosed skin condition such as eczema, psoriasis or severe dermatitis, it is always important to follow advice from a herbalist or dermatologist alongside any skincare routine.
Simple routine tips for dry, cracked or eczema‑prone skin
Alongside choosing a barrier‑supporting cream, small daily changes can make a noticeable difference to very dry or rough skin.
- Switch to gentle, non‑stripping cleansers and avoid foaming washes with harsh surfactants wherever possible.
- Keep shower water lukewarm rather than hot, and limit long soaks that can strip lipids from the skin barrier.
- Apply your moisturiser or very dry skin cream within a few minutes of bathing to trap in surface water and reduce moisture loss.
- Use barrier‑supporting creams liberally on hands, elbows, shins and any eczema‑prone areas, especially after washing.
- Avoid over‑exfoliating; if you need to smooth rough skin, look for gentle, lactic‑acid‑containing formulas suited to sensitive or eczema‑prone skin.
If dryness, cracking or eczema symptoms do not improve, worsen, or start to interfere with sleep or daily life, seek personalised guidance from a qualified healthcare professional.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my skin stay dry no matter how much moisturiser I use?
When the skin barrier is compromised, water escapes through the surface faster than moisturiser can replace it, a process known as increased transepidermal water loss. In this situation, barrier‑supporting creams that focus on replenishing lipids and gentle hydration – like goat's milk and starflower formulations – are often more effective than water‑heavy lotions alone.
What causes cracked, rough skin?
Cracked, rough skin usually develops when prolonged dryness and barrier damage cause the outer layers to lose flexibility. Common triggers include frequent hand‑washing, exposure to cold or low‑humidity environments, harsh cleansers, and underlying conditions such as eczema or psoriasis that weaken the barrier.
How do you support a damaged skin barrier?
Supporting a damaged barrier involves reducing exposure to irritants and focusing on lipid‑rich moisturisers that reduce transepidermal water loss. Using creams that combine humectants with GLA‑rich plant oils like starflower (borage), along with soothing ingredients appropriate for sensitive or eczema‑prone skin, can help restore comfort and resilience over time.
Is goat's milk skincare good for eczema‑prone skin?
Goat‑milk‑based skincare can offer gentle hydration, mild exfoliation and barrier support, and is often favoured by people with dry, sensitive or eczema‑prone skin. While it does not replace medical treatment, its fats, proteins and lactic acid can help reduce dryness and discomfort when used as part of a supportive routine.
What makes starflower (borage) oil different for very dry skin?
Starflower (borage) seed oil is exceptionally rich in gamma‑linolenic acid, an omega‑6 fatty acid that helps repair the skin's lipid barrier and improve moisture retention. This makes it particularly useful in creams for very dry, rough or eczema‑prone skin where standard moisturisers haven't been enough to restore comfort.
